Sioux Wall

The big one! Francis had been keen for this as a season warm up(!) but I was fairly intimidated by it. This was because some friends of mine had had a pretty scary time on it in very icy conditions a couple of years ago, and they were good. But Francis convinced me, and the reality is its well protected with good hooks.

We got to the bottom and it looked good and white, so we ditched sacks and Francis led the intro pitch. I got to the belay a geared up, the first hard pitch above. I traversed out left to gain the main crack system but it was barred by sloping ramps, I found an ok hook high with my left and planted my right pick into some turf on a chest height sloping ledge, then slowly and on the edge of balance rocked over. Gear at last, good gear too, and nice positive hooks up a steep wall past a couple of thin sections to a resting point 3 meters below the belay. This looked hard, I got a good hook out right, feet high on edges then made a loooong reach back left to a torque in a crack. No more footholds, so I got up into a wide bridge, leaning back off the torque, then both feet out left to fully lay back and, wumph, bomber turf above, phew.

 

First pitch of Sioux Wall VIII 8

 

Francis then dispatched his pitch in style, only slowing for the crux. Seconding, it felt awkward getting the torques to work on the crux and I popped out of one, stopping with a jolt on the lanyard of my other axe, balls! I hate seconding hard mixed! Back on I was a bit more careful and joined Francis at the top of the route. Sweet line and great to do something I was pretty intimidated by.

 

Francis on the 3rd pitch of Sioux Wall VIII 8

 

 

 

Leave a Reply

  

  

  

You can use these HTML tags

<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>