Un-expected Success

Yesterday I did I’ve Been a Bad Bad Boy at LPT in North Wales. It was my my first f7c (although most people think f7c+) and the first route I’ve worked on for longer than a day. I got on it twice back in April to work out the moves and then went back after my return from Fair Head in June and felt a lot stronger on it. So after two sessions working the moves again I decided I’d just start trying it, thinking that the process of getting pumped and falling off at various points would build up the necessary fitness to eventually do it – I wasn’t expecting a quick tick!

After an attempt on Friday, falling on the dynamic move into the groove about 2/3 of the way up, I went down yesterday feeling very weary (my 4th consecutive day sport climbing at the Orme) and probably prone to injury. I warmed up and then put the clips in and felt ok so I thought I’d give it a burn. Success felt a way away, but I thought it’d be good training to get pumped and fall off. Before I knew it I was above my high point, then in the rubbish rest at the undercuts thinking ‘I don’t feel too bad’, then looking at the finishing hold, one powerful lunge away, thinking ‘don’t blow it’, then clipping the lower-offs thinking ‘did that really just happen?’

Back on the ground Glyn confirmed that it had and we shared a victory half sandwich (I’d forgotten my lunch).

Red pointing is a funny thing, you have to know when to stop working things out and getting the moves, the rests, the clips and your fitness perfect and start trying it. Getting the timing wrong could mean the whole thing taking a lot longer. It’s a whole new aspect of climbing for me and I guess it takes practise, luckily this experience was a very positive one and after giving my body a bit of a rest I’ll be lining up the next project!


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